Backpacking Scotland: New Zealand Hikers Explore the UK
Aug 13, 2024
The two explorers have named this summer expedition "Antipode," which means polar opposite. Originally from New Zealand, they've headed out to explore the opposite side of the world: Inverness, Scotland and other beautiful parts of the UK.
Their adventure includes no commercial transport. They are walking, biking, cycling, paddling, and sailing.
We caught up with them a bit in Ireland (after they had just completed backpacking Scotland). Here's a little bit more about their trek.
Where have you traveled so far on your Antipode trek?
Answer: Antipode started on 6th of May 2024 in Inverness, Scotland. We’re now in Ireland, so have travelled through Scotland, to Northern Ireland, and currently in Ireland heading to Galway.
The most well-known track we’ve done so far would be the Great Glen Way in Scotland where we started, but have also been
- over Ben Nevis
- completed the Ayrshire Coastal Route
- and currently on the Grand Canal Way from Dublin to Shannonbridge.
Which location surprised you most in the best way?
The generosity of people in Ireland so far. Unreal! The most pleasant surprise so far has been that the Irish are the most friendly and generous people that we have ever met.
Some in particular have gone above and beyond to welcome us to their country and ensure that we have everything we need. We have been taken in and been looked after by people who could have just passed us on the trails and just said hi... but instead offer you a place to stay, a hot shower, and a good meal.
Campsite with the most epic views while backpacking Scotland?
Answer: So far, hands down camping on the south side of Ben Nevis! Best views, best weather, isolated from the crowds walking up the popular track on the north west side, and just breathtaking.
Stand-out trails or sights along the way?
James: Loch Lochy was particular beautiful through the Great Glen Way, as was Ben Nevis.My favourite track so far along this trip would be waking from Steal Falls across the Mountains and into Kinlochleven. I actually injured myself quite badly descending into Kinlochleven, but it didn’t take away the beauty of that pass, the weather, or the views. Stunning!
Hannah: Stand-out sights, hmm. I think some of the most picturesque moments were in Scotland on the Great Glen Way. You go along forestry tracks which climb up the hill to then open up to 180 degree views up and down Loch Ness.
We were spoilt with weather and it was a stunning day, the Loch was flat and glassy, almost calling you in.
Any weather encountered that's unique to these places when compared to NZ?
Answer: This summer in the Northern hemisphere... we’ve been told, it has been really weird. And to be fair, we’ve had everything from a record-high 37degrees C in Scotland, to crazy thunder and hail storms.
But compared to home, it’s very wet.
NZ is green, sure, but Scotland and Ireland are extra wet! The weather can change on a dime. Sunny days can have the wettest evenings, and that brings out the bugs...
Differences when backpacking Scotland from that of New Zealand?
Answer: Camping in Scotland is great! So easy! The only problems are midges (depending on where and when you’re camping) and the Ticks!
We came across so many of those little blood suckers, and actually, one of my deepest low moments on Antipode so far was the night Hannah and I were trying to set up camp in Kinlochleven!
A full story there, but honestly we had 10’s of them crawling over our feet and up our legs just trying to set up our tent!
NZ is different in that the places we’ve been on Antipode have no where near as much bush density as New Zealand. But also we haven’t explored these countries fully, and so it's perhaps unfair to compare.
Of the three (Scotland, Ireland and NZ), Scotland is by the far the easiest as they accept free wild camping EVERYWHERE!
*The areas we have been in Ireland so far are not set up for camping. Camp sites are few and far between, and camping along the canal where we have been walking is discouraged. However, like most places if you are respectful and tidy then nobody will bother you.
Gear that's helped the most on the backpacking Scotland trek?
Answer: Outside of FlipFuel, a tough one! We love our gear! We spent over a year building a really good collection of gear for this trip.I think the tent has been SO important. I was originally set on bringing my Hyperlite 2p Unbound, but instead Hannah and I brought her Durston X-Mid 2 Solid with us, and can I say thank god we did.
It’s just a tent we cannot fault at all, and you get zero condensation problems with this model of tent, whereas as cool as dyneema tents are, light all the rest, living out of it for three years, no thanks. Get yourself a Durston.
But all this gear is pretty irrelevant if you don’t have a good pack, and Aarn packs are way beyond good!
The ability to have front pouches with snacks/waterproofs/water is a total game changer for people who are on the move.
I could go on about gear, but number 1: the pack that you're lugging around, 2: what you're gonna be spending your time sleeping and sheltering in!
Gear that you wish you had? Added on later based on changing needs?
Answer: Hannah and I have spoken about this a lot recently, and as far as a hiking trip goes, nothing.But relevant to Antipode: Bikes. We’ve learnt a lot on this trip, and one thing is, most of your walking, and logistic problems (so far anyway) are getting out of town, and you’re walking a lot of pavement and suburbia.
[Read how to gear up for bikepacking trips.]
So looking forward Hannah and I are gonna move our main mode of transport from walking to biking! There are a number of cons to this actually, but I’m quite excited for this change, and hey, if we don't like it, it’s easy to change again!
If anything we had more items than we needed, we have actually sent 2 packages back to family as it was just unnecessary gear that was taking up space. You don’t need much!
- A pair of clothes, and spare pair
- your sleeping system
- a tent
- a billie and cooker
- and food
How has the FlipFuel fuel transfer device helped fuel your adventure?
We only have to replace the big canister, which is a cost-effective way of refilling the smaller, more-convenient and storable size.
We’ve been surprised at how little fuel we’ve used actually having been able to cook a number of meals by fire.
We have consolidated from large canisters twice into our little 113g canister thus far! And 110% worth it.
Any unique backpacking foods that you've picked up in the UK?
Answer: Unique? Hmm, well our trail food is usually couscous or oats. Savoury oats might be a little bit different to the norm but actually can be flavoured well and contain a bit of nutrition!Our go-to recipe is something along the lines of: oats, water, stock cubes, tomato paste, cheese, and a packet of ‘cup’o’soup’ in there. This certainly keeps you going and the flavours can be changed to keep the brain happy.
Where are you headed next after backpacking Scotland and Ireland?
Answer: Next up! We are planning on spending a good amount of our 3 month stay in Ireland exploring along the West Coast. From here, we will attempt to crack the puzzle of getting to Norway, still with no commercial transport.Hopefully, we can winter in Norway and find some work to refill the bank accounts before we set off through Europe.
Bonus: Where does the epic name "Salty Grins" come from?
Answer: "Salty Grins" isn't a trail name, and it doesn’t mean to literally be salty, nor the colloquial idea of calling someone salty when they’re a bit sour!
Everything I've done with Salty Grins, I wanted to do with purpose. So before I took it public, I spent a lot of time questioning ‘why?" What’s the purpose, the vision, and why do it this way and share it with everyone? So logically the name has some depth!
The first layer! There’s a quote by the author Karen Blixen: “I know a cure for everything, It’s salt, sweat, tears, and the ocean.”
So, in a nutshell, it’s about healing, but more so about the pursuit of what we call at home (Aotearoa, New Zealand) "Mauri Ora." This translates to ‘your best, flourishing self.’
There is much, much more to the story. Listen to James discuss the name on The Salty Grins YouTube channel.
Ambassador Treks: From New Zealand Tramping to Backpacking Scotland
We're stoked to follow along on this Antipode adventure! And we’re thrilled to showcase two of our international FlipFuel Ambassadors. These experienced backpackers (or "trampers" as they say in New Zealand) are trekking some seriously wicked trails and offering some really helpful thru-hiking tips.
You can follow along on Instagram, too. Find Hannah at IG Hannah's Adventuring and James at IG SaltyGrins.
If you want to contribute your tips to our blog or have questions about joining the FlipFuel Ambassador team, send us a message on Instagram at @flipfuel.
